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Mugi Evo Hangar Box
Available again from the 12th September is our sturdy Hangar Box for the Evo. By then I shall have sufficient stocks of these very popular handmade storage boxes. Made from our 2.5mm thickness black twinwall material, triangular shaped to fit your Evo snugly. We all use a Hangar Box here at Mugi-brilliant for preventing car rash and travel attrition. The car always travels around with the triangular black box tucked away safely in a corner of the boot, out of sight. Enables a quick flight off any suitable slope that presents itself, over fields adjacent to the highway, in local parks, off valley scarps. Plonk your box on the coastal cliff paths or promenade tops and savour that onshore breeze...chuck off your brushless Evo. See how long you can resist the flypast blast, the stupendous vertical OOS (not adisable!) climb, the deep stall descent-normality again in gentle cruising..
Posted to you as a single item or complete as a square pair of attached Hangar Box triangles. They are already hand cut out, scored, dry folded to their final triangular shape for posting. All are wrapped in heavy duty brown paper to survive our postal system. They travel by Royal Mail at Standard Parcel rate. The Hangar Box is shown on the picture above, prior to folding, laid flat on some paving stones. Initially you will need to prepare and clean the black material with a little White Spirit. After minor trimming, assemble using your Evo-stik contact adhesive. If you are also purchasing the Evo kit, then the included glue will be more than sufficient to make both the Evo and a Hangar Box. But additional small 30g tubes are available separately in the site shop listed under 'Building Materials'. Some of the extra black offcut twinwall material (from the donor full sized sheet) is included for your own use eg: making internal pockets/divisions for spare flight batteries, clear tape reel, launch elastic etc. Expect oddball sizes and shapes of course. Even make a transmitter pocket.
The Evo Hangar Box (or pair) is despatched to you by Royal Mail-Standard Parcel rate in the UK. Within the postage cost and weight band is a golden opportunity - the individual triangular box shape and volume enables both a single Evo kit and all it's components to be included. Plus there is some additional space in the box (still within the weight allowance!) to permit an extra roll of our coloured tape; plus other sundry accessories from our shop as required. This includes hardware bits and pieces, an extra Evo-Stik tube, motors and controllers, servos, lengthy yet bendy snakes and also coiled metre lengths of our 1.5mm carbon rod. Regretably NOT the unyielding one metre long carbon tube lengths but extra 500mm half lengths (wingspars) are ok - just add other components by going through the relevant site sections and then proceed to the checkout stage. A great chance to stock up on some thin carbon fibre and piano wire whilst you can. We do earnestly recommend using this additional volume and weight allowance in one postal charge hit.
Sadly we cannot post our Hangar Box abroad as the 900mm International Regulation limit is breached by the box size. Carriers would entertain it but the cost may be prohibitive and we have never been asked to quote, perhaps understandably.
However relatives currently visit twice yearly from Nemours, Seine et Marne, France. They have already take home flattened* hangar boxes for free, with subsequent collection from their door. The operation will be co-ordinated by us on your behalf if you enquire.
* the overall flat 'square' being 955 x 955 x 2.5mm should you call direct here in Holmfirth; again by arrangement please. Most cars have a flat boot floor that will just accommodate this size but it is as well to measure. At a pinch the 'square' can be almost half folded across (along one of the already-creased pair of diagonals) to carry home. Silly shape but manageable.
Each order is packed individually in the triangular box so reference to the 'view basket', 'checkout', 'calculate shipping' sections in sequence lets you know how the weight is progressing. The 4Kg point lifts the postal rate into a slightly higher band but could be worth your while.
Finally (if you haven't fallen asleep) consider buying two boxes with a colleague. Paired they travel as a much tougher square package. They post hypoteneuse to hypoteneuse and then are brown paper firmly wrapped.
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Hangar Box Building Instructions
On receipt of the delivered, paper wrapped, big triangular package then please unwrap carefully. The box will probably disassemble before your eyes, 'Jack-in-a-Box' style to spread out on the floor. Collect the parts and separate out all the black stuff . Actual assembly is straightforward; just carefully follow the build sequence below. Use Evo-Stik contact adhesive preferably from a tube. Avoid the Time Bond variety, it will also work but only if fresh. The tube is far more convenient and lasts months,if kept vool and well capped. Some square sections of timber, about 75 x 75 x 600mm will help to establish aligned corners and flatten gluing sections; preferably left overnight. Ourselves, we prefer using several machine-made house bricks, the denser the better. These are very heavy, hold parts well and have decent right angle corners. Invaluable aids to the build.
Start by building the two shorter sides; the walls are folded over double. Flatten to crease folds well. Rotate vertically to check their fit on the base triangle plate. Trim slivers away if required using a sharp blade. When satisfied, glue together both folded halves of each side wall and flatten them overnight, fully weighted down. This is where the bricks are handy. Next, check for fit, the outside right angle corner formed by the two 'new' thickened walls. Glue up their mutual join and run glue along both the walls /baseplate junctions. Use a clothes peg or similar to keep the triangle part from glue grabbing at this stage whilst you align the two walls. Squeeze the corner together and then the triangular flap can be snuggly popped into place. Leave overnight to harden off. The same procedure is used on the long side (hypotenuse) firstly at one acute corner and then the other. The trick here is to prevent glued areas grabbing prematurely. Again the bricks are handy, but an assistant is better. Vertical joins are kept apart using temporary offcuts of a plastic bag; pegs hold the triangles out of the way. Make sure the back wall is vertical; to ensure alignment of the front right angle corner, fold the 'lid' cover over; check the cover correctly meets the walls below by temporarily folding it's flaps outside the walls. Glue up one acute corner first, join by pulling out the plastic bag and squeezing to make the join grab. Repeat for the other acute corner. Open the box cover, take off the pegs and snug the triangles into their respective positions. Finally secure the assembly and weight down; leaving the cover flaps outside the walls for twelve hours or so to compress the corner joins. Next slowly and carefully cut out (with a very sharp pointed blade) and trim the partly formed finger opening hole. Ensure no sharp edges! The penultimate job is to run a glue fillet internally along all the right angle joins; include also the two acute inside corners. An older (thicker) glue tube is ideal if you have one. When these are set, use the glue on the exterior of the corners to seal the exposed flutes. Several thin coats will be needed to coat over the exposed flutes, make them raintight. For a real belt-and-braces touch; if you have a hot glue gun, short 25mm lengths/dabs can be placed around the internal angles, especially the corners up to the wall top. Add any interrnal pouches etc. that you can think of. If a bright idea occurs then please don't hesitate to share it with others on our Forum.
A splodge of colour on the box exterior stops you inadvertently tripping over it, though we prefer ours to be anonymous. The originals are now over ten years old, marked, scratched andscored but still going strong! The box is used with the two cover flaps tucked into the walls first. Carry under the arm as you forge up your local slope or across the flying field; pointy corner downwards and holding with middle finger into the finger hole. Watch out for windy gusts affecting your "sail". Pin or weight down to the ground in squall conditions and don't forget to invert it if rain threatens. My dad's lifted off once, in a gust on the local Castle Hill slope. Looked vaguely similar to a Mugi Evo in the air but 'flew' very badly and was going some when it landed. Creased the corners too-must check the CG sometime...
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